Live4Mountaineering

A Petzl Teaser

2012-02-09T21:06:00.001Z

This is a sneak preview teaser of a new movie coming soon from Petzl by Petzl team member Christophe Dumarest.
In 2010 with his friend Yann Borgnet they linked three historic routes set by Walter Bonatti in 6 days of effort across the Mont Blanc massif.

Teaser 'Voie Bonatti' from Christophe Dumarest on Vimeo.

Enjoy....

A not So Misty Mountain

2012-02-07T21:31:00.001Z

Today myself and Frith headed back up to Cambridge Crags and North Buttress on Bowfell, to see how conditions had shaped up from the recent heavy snowfall.
Anther super alpine frosty start here gave spectacular views across the fells and mountains.
Conditions on the crags are currently leaner that that of recent days making for alternate routes choices, with this in mind we opted for the wondering line of Misty Mountain Hop.
The route gave good climbing over a series of corners and steps which is open to variation depending on your imagination.

Wild Wild & Some !!!

2012-02-05T21:00:00.001Z

Today I was out with Wez on a one day guided Lakes Winter climbing course. Conditions just as forecast had changed from last weeks alpine blue sky's to a more traditional winter with this in mind a buttress route was the safest option given the volume of snow being blow around, giving safer climbing and a safer approach.

No way Out!!

2012-02-03T20:06:00.010Z

Today was yet another super alpine day here in the Lake District, and probably the last as the forecast is suggesting it breaking tomorrow.
Keen to take advantage of the winter climbing conditions whilst they last here, Alan and myself headed back into Langdale and high up onto Bowfell. Our original plan had been to do the Classic Bowfell Buttress, which looks a great mixed route albeit we felt today that it wasn't ethically wintry enough.
Instead we opted for and very understated route, No way Out which gives superb climbing up a series of grooves.
Conditions changed towards the end of the day with the odd light snow flurry passing through, maybe ahead of tomorrows forecast snow.

Lesueur - Les Drus (Winter)

2012-02-02T18:46:00.004Z

Another superb video from Scarpa and Petzl, well worth the viewing and also definitely an inspiration for winter climbers and alpinists. Enjoy

Lesueur - Les Drus in winter (with variation exit) from Jonathan Griffith on Vimeo.

Lake District Ski Touring

2012-02-01T21:11:00.000Z

Today armed with ski's we headed away to the North Lake District, as touring conditions are slightly better than here in the South.
Having in recent years toured the Helvellyn Range and skied from the summit of Skiddaw I was keen to take advantage, and opted for Blencathra, albeit a short carry was required to gain the snow line.
A good depth allowed us to tour up the ridge smoothly, a few folks were also out enjoying good mountaineering conditions on Sharp Edge, which is considerably different to that undertaken in summer. The descent gave some super turns, adding to the already big smiles.

Vivian Quarry

2012-02-01T18:41:00.000Z

Wednesday dawned colder and clearer than the previous days, determined to make the most of it we headed to Vivian Quarry so Graham could climb Mental Lentils, which he did in great style considering his hands and feet were numb for most of it. I went to have a look at the classic Last Tango In Paris, unfortunately the cold and length of the climb psyched me out. However we are both determined to get back and tick off loads more classics.

Dominic

Lake District Winter

2012-01-31T20:54:00.005Z

Today after a long drive down yesterday from Scotland, and having been told winter had arrived again in the Lake District I was keen to take advantage.
Paddy and myself headed to Langdale which has to be my favourite climbing valley in the Lake District.
Since last Friday the Lake District has remained cold with low freezing levels and to add had a good substantial snow fall.
We headed up to the Bowfell area to take a look, the Buttress routes were in superb conditions with nice light rime and good solid frozen turf. Two other teams were also out climbing the Gnomon and the Classi Bowfell Buttress.
We opted for an attempt on a superb line Sword of Damocles (VIII/8) which is still to have a 2nd ascent, the out look remains cold and wintry for the next few days.

Serengeti and Dali's Hole

2012-01-31T20:37:00.000Z

Tuesday dawned colder and cloudier but still no hint of rain or snow. After a not so alpine start we headed back to the Serengeti area so I could give Seams The Same a try to see if Grahams logic worked. Thankfully it did, the route was amazing with brilliant moves. After a quick warm up coffee in Dali’s Hole, Graham climb Zambezi, an interesting corner crack line with more interesting moves. With the cold eating away at us we called it a short but good day all round.

Dominic

Bus Stop and Serengeti

2012-01-30T20:32:00.000Z

Graham and I headed to

Wales

with the hope of ticking off some classic VS multipitch routes; the weather had other plans though. With the freezing level being lower than most of the crags we were forced to change plans. Bus Stop Quarry was the venue and Graham started up Solstice but due to poor fitting boots he couldn’t trust his feet and retreated. I geared up and with one no hands, on-off move sent the route in good style. After a quick brew in Petes Eats and armed with a new set of shoes Graham climbed Seamstress in the Serengeti area of the Dinorwig Quarries.

Dominic

Many Thanks Dom

AMI and BMG Avalanche workshop

2012-01-28T21:08:00.001Z

Today I was participant on a SAIS avalanche workshop here on the West Coast. The workshop brought together both Guides and Mountain Instructors from around the UK as continual professional development.
The day was hosted SAIS and run by IFMGA Guide Mark Diggins of the Avalanche services here in Scotland.
Through a series of mini lectures and field workshops on modern developments and ways in which we read and deliver avalanche awareness.
The current way of thinking is a much more dynamic and fluid way of thinking than the old styles of years gone. We also looked at snow science to again further our knowledge and look at maybe how ourselves as Mountain Instructors may forecast for ourselves.
A great day of learning with so much information being shared can only a greater knowledge and understanding.

Still Winter

2012-01-26T18:40:00.004Z

Today Gavin and myself headed back into the Coire an T-Sneachda for day four of his trip, to take a look after yesterdays warm weather.
Conditions much to our amazement were a lot better than I had expected, with buttresses remaining white and some fresh snow.
We opted for the much looked over route Western Rib which gives good climbing, still with turf albeit still plenty of big loose blocks in places requiring care.
Lots of routes being climbed within the coire, with lots of reports of them being harder currently than guidebook grades.

New Tools

2012-01-25T21:49:00.000Z

Thinking of buying new tools now that winter is under way or you've had your first taste of winter climbing. Take the time to watch this video for more idea on which tools may suit you and your aspirations.

New line of Petzl Charlet ice tools - QUARK NOMIC ERGO from Petzl-sport on Vimeo.

The Grooved Rib

2012-01-24T19:13:00.002Z

Today Gavin and myself headed back into the Northern Coire's in the Cairngorms for more winter climbing.
Conditions had improved within the Coire overnight with a thicker coating of rime on the buttress routes. The Grooved Rib our route of choice which appears in the new Cicerone Cairngom Guide, and is not included in the SMC guide. The route gave good climbing albeit a little thin in numerous places with some ice in the lower groove.
Caution is still required in places as lots of loose blocks are still present in these lean conditions. Other routes being climbed today White Magic, Honey Pot, Hidden Chimney, Red Gully(Mixed), Goat Track Gully(Mixed), Pot of Gold, The Message.
Thaw forecast tomorrow with warm temperatures and winds sadly may take its toll.

Mess of Pottage

2012-01-23T20:04:00.001Z

Today I was out with Gavin in Coire an-t Sneachda, on the Mess of Pottage.
Climbing conditions in the coire today were superb albeit a little thin on some routes, buttress routes are white with good coating of rime with the gully's slightly thinner.
Mess of Pottage and Hidden chimney direct followed by the classic Hidden Chimney, which both gave excellent climbing.
Plenty of other teams also out enjoying the good conditions, on Honey Pot, Openning Break, Fingers Ridge, Haston Line, Belhaven and more.

Lecht Skiing

2012-01-21T18:20:00.001Z

Today Joanne and myself headed over to the Lecht ski area to escape the heavy winds.
Having only ever skied at Nevis Range and Cairngorm, the Lecht provided a pleasant surprise.
Sheltered more from the strong winds, the Lecht; having had a good covering from the recent snowfall, gave good skiing.
Some great turns on good snow, made for a great day, and a nice end to Joanne's holiday.

Snow !

2012-01-20T17:50:00.002Z

Today Joanne and myself took full advantage of yesterdays heavy snow fall here in the North East.
We headed for Cairngorm which lately has been suffering from the lack of snow on all runs. Today with yesterdays and last nights fresh snow, conditions had greatly improved giving pleasant skiing conditions albeit not quite alpine. The Ptarmigan bowl gave some pleasant runs with the gun barrel also giving some excellent skiing.

MacDuibh

2012-01-16T21:24:00.002Z

Today with another good forecast and keen to make the most of the day, Joanne and myself headed for Beinn MacDuibh.
As with the previous two days the weather here has been superb giving amazing panoramic views, making up for the poor climbing conditions.
The snow covering on the plateau is currently somewhat patchy, icy and in need of some fresh snow.
The evening light again made for a superb end to a very pleasant day, let's hope the next few days of mixed unsettled weather brings some snow.

Cairngorms Stretch

2012-01-15T21:29:00.001Z

Today after a late Joanne and myself headed up Cairngorm.
We looked at refreshing her basic winter skills, from use of crampons for safe movement on steep ground to self arrest.

Intro Day 2

2012-01-14T18:30:00.001Z

Today Vicky, Andy and myself headed back in the Coire, to continue her introduction to winter climbing. Throughtout the day we looked at rope work and anchor selection, safe approach and route choice for the given conditions.
Conditions had changed a little overnight with the temperature inversion.
We opted for Crotched Gully which currently is a little more mixed than normal.

Winter Appears!!

2012-01-13T23:35:00.001Z

Today I met up with Andy and Vicky for a day in the Northern Coire's.
After the last few days of warm weather yesterdays fresh snow fall was welcomed by all.
The day was based on giving Vicky an introduction to winter via the Mess of Pottage.
So with this in mind we opted for a slight route variation, Left Edge variation which gives around grade III climbing.
Conditions within the Coire have vastly improved, for the time being.
Hidden Chimney and Hidden Chimney Direct were also climbed today by Giles and Phil.

Summer

2012-01-11T21:15:00.000Z

Today keen to stretch the legs and make the most of our day, I headed for a look into Coire An t-Sneachda at the damage the recent warm weather has done.
The conditions are currently more summer than winter with odd patch of firm old snow, on the plus Coire an Lochain has suffered a little less with the aprons remaining complete, and the easier deep gully’s complete.
Another windy day forecast for tomorrow but on the plus side they are suggesting the odd snow shower passing through, which may or may not give a little more of a wintery feel.
Currently chalk bags and rock shoes are much more useful.

Chalk Bag n Rock Shoes!

2012-01-10T20:48:00.003Z

I headed away up from the Cairngorms to Cummingston on the Moray Firth, for a day of climbing as recent conditions have favoured the chalk bag and rock shoes over axes and crampons.
Cummingston has a superb variety of rock climbing from slabs to steep walls with some excellent bouldering added in. The climbing is on superb rough sandstone albeit with the odd loose rock in places to add extra spice.
Hopefully conditions in the coire’s will become a little more wintery as the unsettled week progresses. Fingers crossed. More...

Intro to Ski Touring

2012-01-09T19:56:00.006Z

Today I was working with Matthew on a one day basic introduction to ski touring for a Local ski company in the Cairngorm.
The conditions were less than perfect and far from alpine, but we managed to make a good day on Cairngorm.
We headed up into Coire Cas linking the remaining snow looking at basic techniques required to climb efficiently and move safely on ski's.
Snow conditions around the ski area are currently firm and thin with ice in places, requiring care, The Ptarmigan Bowl still has a reasonable covering albeit scratchy in places..
The Outlook still remains warm with the chance of snow on Thursday before cooling down for the weekend.

No Skiing Today

2012-01-07T20:19:00.002Z

Today's intended plan of action had originally been to ski here on the West Coast, but with today's strong North Westerly winds the Glen Coe resort was Closed due to the conditions.
To keep the taste buds wet for more ski winter action watch this excellent Petzl video.

Ski patrollers of La Grave by Petzl-crew

Quick Hit

2012-01-06T22:02:00.007Z

Today with a weak high pressure passing over we opted for an early start to try and beat the afternoons impending rise in temperatures and change in conditions, over here in the Cairngorm's.
Zac and myself headed into the Northern Coires to the Mess of Pottage given the safer approach and the recent wind directions making for good conditions.
Our intended route already had a few teams on, so we opted for another superb route at a similar grade, the Honey Pot.
Conditions on the route were fantastic with a superb covering of rime with frozen turf, albeit making it time consuming cleaning.
Other routes also being climbed today were Hidden Chimney Direct, Hybrid, The Message, The Messenger, Opening Break.

Creagan Cha-No

2012-01-05T17:46:00.006Z

As we all know winter climbing is about weather, snow, conditions, routes and avalanche conditions and of course the winter early starts.
Today Myself, Zac & Pickles opted for a new venue or maybe along forgotten climbing venue on the edge of the the Northern Coire's here in the Cairngorms.
Creagan Cha-No has a variety of routes from III to VI'7 mostly all mixed on pristine granite.
Sadly as winter climbing is a game the dice rolled the wrong way, with last nights snow and some deep accumulations of wind slab we opted to call it a day.

Glenmore Lodge Induction

2012-01-04T20:03:00.006Z

Today was another annual Glenmore Lodge winter induction here on the East Coast, near Aviemore.
This day is part of their QA assurance and a great opportunity for mountaineering instructors to share knowledge on delivering high quality courses.
Winter conditions within the Coire an T-Sneachda currently are fairly good with a variety of routes being climbed, The Message, The Runnel, Goat Track Gully and Droidless.

Ingleton

2012-01-02T17:35:00.008Z

Another day another meeting this time over in North Yorkshire at Inglesports with web designer mtDesign who are based in Lancashire.
A fair few brew's later and work done we took full advantage of the Inglesports climbing wall which if your in the area is fantastic, with a good spread of grades for everybody.
Conditions on the surrounding fells and Mountains somewhat looked a little more wintry this morning with a good dusting on Ingleborough.

From the 4th January we will be based on the East Coast in the Cairngorm for January before moving to Fort William on the West Coast.

Chill Factor

2011-12-31T21:26:00.002Z

Today was an away day from the Lake District and a meeting in Manchester to tie a few loose ends up before the New year.
Keen to make some use of my day having never used the Chill Factor, and with recent really mild conditions in the Lakes this was the only hope of any snow.
The Chill Factor whilst not as good as a ski resort was a fair substitute for a few hours, and also surprisingly quite.

Petzl Scottish Winter Road Trip!

2011-12-19T16:18:00.004Z

A great video with some superb climbing to keep us all entertained, and with an equally amped up sound track. Enjoy

Scottish Icetrip in Ben Nevis - English by Petzl-crew

South lakes Winter conditions

2011-12-18T22:16:00.000Z

Today I was out with Jo in the South Lakes making the most of the recent winter conditions to hit the Lake District.
The fells and mountains in the Lakes currently have a fantastic covering for both winter climbing and winter walking /winter mountaineering.
We opted to head up the The Old Man of Coniston as this had been on Jo's list for sometime, so we opted for a more interesting route onto the summit plateau's via the summer scramble Goat Crag, giving around a grade I outing.
Plateau conditions were excellent with lots of rime ice present, along with an excellent covering of snow.

Keen to make the most of conditions and Jo's day she opted to take in Swirl How, Great Carrs and Grey Friar before heading down the Prison band and back for a well earn't Hot Chocolate.

Lakes Winter Climbing

2011-12-17T21:55:00.000Z

Today Gavin was out with Mark & Pete for Marks first Lake District Winter route. We headed high to Brown Cove Crags on Helvellyn, as this gives reliable winter climbing conditions.
A few other folks were also out enjoying the conditions so we opted for Left Buttress – grade II which gives good interesting climbing for the grade.
Lots of unconsolidated snow with some fresh from overnight, making for buttress routes to be a safe option.
Visibility was rather poor and the temperature slightly higher than forecast, but overall a great day with weather poorer than expected and rather Scottish in nature.

Cheers
Gavin

Lake District Winter

2011-12-16T17:26:00.010Z

Today I headed away from the South Lakes and further north in the Lake District National park, where winter climbing & walking conditions have been somewhat better lately.
Conditions on Helvellyn currently are very good with a considerable build up in the gully's of Brown Cove crags and those also in the Red Tarn area.
Buttress routes where all in fine condition albeit the turf didn't feel fully frozen in places. A fair number of cornices have also built up in the recent strong winds and indeed I also found a number of large pockets of wind slab.
A good number of climbers today were in Brown Cove on the buttress routes, which considering the amount of fresh snow around was a good choice.Summit conditions required care with navigation as conditions did change from this morning glorious blue sky's.
The ridges again where in great condition giving a fine mountaineering day out after heading over from brown Cove.

Wrong!

2011-12-13T22:31:00.004Z

I guess you win some and you lose some and today was definitely about losing some, all the forecasts suggested heavy snow showers throughout the day with some being prolonged.
Wrong well it appears to have been in the Southern Lakes, as Adam and myself headed high up into the Bowfell Area of Langdale.
After Last weeks fantastic conditions and the thaw the snow has been stripped back, and the buttress's bare and black.
Albeit on the other side of the Lakes it appears to have been a very different story with Helvellyn looking to have caught some fresh snow.
The forecast is still suggesting more snow again tomorrow, I guess we just have to wait and see what tomorrow brings.

A New Dawn Has Arrived !

2011-12-07T15:50:00.011Z

Hi folks hope everyone is keeping well and had a good summer of climbing, or indeed just a good time whatever you got up to, sorry for the lack of updates.
I've been really busy with a variety of work from centres to families and NGB courses, and of course in between climbing and out road biking.
Albeit Winter is upon us again and the first snows have fallen to wet the appetite for cold early morning starts, the hopes and dreams of blue ice or that hoard up rare mixed classic.
Fingers crossed for another good season but just to remind us and keep our minds focused I've added a few photo's from last season.
Enjoy and remember I will try and keep the blog real and factual with what I see on the day.
Also courses are available throughout the winter, please just drop me a line or email.

Gold Mini-Break

2011-06-20T23:13:00.000+01:00

Hi Folks over the last few days I've been away working on a Gold mini break training, up in the Southern Cairngorm.
The group all between 18 and 25 planned their training expedition to take in some spectacular scenery and some In which I would have ordinarily overlooked.
Conditions over the few days were mixed with the odd heavy shower interspersed with warm bright sunshine making for pleasant walking conditions.
Over the course of the practice expedition we looked at areas in which they felt weak and added new more in depth knowledge, hopefully allowing them go on later in the year and complete their final expedition.

3 Peaks

2011-06-12T10:48:00.004+01:00

Well done folks from the Mind Charity who completed there 3 peaks challenge.
Conditions couldn't have been better on Ben Nevis, Scafell and Snowdon.
Clear sunny and warm on Ben Nevis albeit with a suprising amount of snow still on the summit Plateau. Scafell via the corridor route again turned out to be great after the earlier passing showers had died away.
Tired and confident the team enjoyed great early morning conditions on Snowdon seeing them complete under the golden 24hrs.

Sent using BlackBerry® from Orange

Mini-Break

2011-06-09T22:53:00.000+01:00

This week I've been away working again on another Highland mini-break with a Silver DofE expedition.
The students and school had planned their practice expedition in and around the Southern Highlands and the Loch Lomond area for the obvious reasons, the outstanding beauty. Throughout the expedition we worked on giving them the skills to enable them to go onto later in the year a final qualifying adventure with confidence.
The conditions were favourable with light showers amounting to little or nothing followed by warm breezy winds keeping the midges at bay.

Summer or Winter ?

2011-05-23T21:17:00.001+01:00

Rich & myself headed for the Cairngorms to escape the wet wild windy west coast. Our sights were set on Ben Macdui and then a wild camp at the head of Loch Avon underneath Hells Lum crag, to give us an excellent starting point for Cairngorm the following morning.
On Ben Macdui conditions were extremely windy at times with frequent hail and sleet showers but with incredible views of the surrounding peaks, the view however was nothing compared to the view down Loch Avon.
The term wild camp was certainly lived up to its name, with tent pitched the wind and rain began in earnest and continued throughout the night.
Dawn saw us awake to see a fresh layer of snow had fallen through out the night making the already picturesque Glen even more so.
A fantastic few days in a remote environment with Ptarmigans and Rich for company.

2011-05-21T23:55:00.001+01:00

This evening I was out again working on scafell Pike as part of a 3peaks challenge, for Greenhill Finance based in London.
Conditions over on Scafell today were less than favourable with heavy rain low cloud backed by 50mph S'Westerly winds, making for tough conditions for the participants. With success on both peaks and in fair time it was off to the Van for a quick brew and food before making the long drive north to that of Fort William and Ben Nevis. Good Luck folks.
Sorry for the lack of photos as the amount of water around would have damaged the camera.

Scafell

2011-05-08T21:31:00.001+01:00

Today I was out working on Scafell again on a charity fund raising event for the Anthony Nolan Trust.
The weather at first gave clients some challenging conditions, with heavy deluges of rain and gusty winds.
Throughout the day this eased to turn into a warm sunny clear summers day, allowing the team and myself to dry out and enjoy some superb views across Cumbria.
Nearly all were successful in completing the event and raising a good amount of money for the charity. Well done folks.

Eastern Grit

2011-05-03T21:54:00.001+01:00

Rich, Dan and myself headed to Froggat in the Eastern peak today as we had our eyes on a few classic routes on the edge.
Richard after seconding the top 50 Chequers Buttress (HVS 5a) was keen to lead the route which he dispatched with relative ease. Other routes on our tick list were Todys Wall another classic HVS 5a again Rich climbed the route in good style.
The top of my tick list was the classic micro route Strapiombante (E1 5b), I had previously taken a fall on this route several weeks ago, fresh and psyched I powered my way through, the short powerful crux to a superb finish.
Three Pebble Slab and ultra classic Heather Wall were also fine routes to climb on cracking day in the sun on perfect Grit. Dom

Perfect Slab!

2011-05-02T20:24:00.009+01:00

Today was another one of those days that can be described in one word, Wow.
Sergeant Crag Slabs was everything we'd heard it to be, living up to it's reputation. Adam and myself opted for a quick start on the ** route of Terminator 2 before heading off up the Classic *** Lakeland Cragsman.
With the sun appearing a little more on the crag and giving a pleasant warm feel, we opted for Holly Tree Crack E1 5b.
We climbed an number of other route on the crag which all gave outstanding climbing, making me think I'll be back for more.
A fantastic day.

Scafell

2011-05-01T13:25:00.005+01:00

This morning I was working part of a 3 peaks challenge on Scafell and conditions couldn't have been better with a warm clear sky and dazzling stars, albeit on the windy side.
The team having had a long day on Ben Nevis were in fairly good shape, but carrying a few injury's.
A late arrival saw us only have an hour of darkness before a spectacular dawn on the Scafell massif. Sadly only Will and Divinda managed arrive on the summit to enjoy the views before making a swift descent.

The weather Continues......

2011-04-29T21:58:00.002+01:00

Today I was out again with staff and gap year students from a local OEC on their local crag doing some staff training.
We headed off to Milton crag to look at group management and how to make best use of the crag for group sessions including discussions risk management.
Throughout the day the team progressed onto rope work and set ups, allowing them to share ideas and for some to learn new skills.
An excellent day with lots of learning and ideas being shared amongst the staff, it was also nice to see the centre manager also out.

A Crag with a View!

2011-04-27T23:28:00.000+01:00

This evening I headed off to another new crag keeping with the theme of recent weeks of exploring and visiting new areas.
The Whangie which is situated in the Kilpatrick Hills on the flanks of Auchineden Hill over looking Loch Lomond and the Southern Highlands didn't disappoint.
The crag has plenty of excellent routes albeit with some loose rock in places requiring great care. Solitude and soloing with a perfect setting sun made for an excellent evening, and fine finish to the day.

Brownstones

2011-04-22T16:48:00.004+01:00

Today I was out again but for a boulder at an excellent little venue on the outskirts of Bolton.
Brownstones Quarry again is quarried Grit similar to that of the Wilton 1,2 & 3 and gives superb climbing.
As imagined on a sunny bank Holiday the quarry was quiet, albeit a little warmer than I had hoped for.
I was impressed by the quality of problems on both Ash Pit Slab area and indeed also the Pool area, currently not much of a pool.
Worth a visit if your in the area or simply passing.

Not so Windy

2011-04-21T21:15:00.003+01:00

Today I was again in the Peak District climbing with Dominic at a not so windy Windgather.
This Gritstone outcrop has to be one of the most easily accessed in the Peak District making it superb for family's group and climbers alike. Dominic and myself started of the day with the mat's and soloed a fair number of routes, before moving onto South Buttress. South Buttress has a higher concentration of mid grade routes than any other area on Windgather, albeit mostly all the routes have short lived crux's.
Still with the temperature rising and having climbed all the routes of interest on South Buttress we opted for the Classic of the crag Portfolio HVS 5b, with it slight overhanging wall crux.
Rumoured to be a Joe Brown route this route didn't disappoint, as with all the routes we climbed today, they all gave good sharp moves with fairly good protection.
With a extremely good number of routes climbed and lack of water, we opted to call it a day satisfied.

SML

2011-04-20T21:11:00.002+01:00

Today I was out working as part of a team for the day on a summer mountain leader training course here in the south Lakes.
12 clients split down between 3 staff allowing for excellent ratio's for the days intended outcomes.
Ash, Karry-Ann, Ben and Tim including myself headed off up towards to Old man of Coniston here in the South Lakes. The weather couldn't have been better with perfect blue sky's and a gentle breeze keeping the heat at bay.
The steep ground around Low Water allowed us to look at steep ground route choice, party management and rope work whilst giving us an alternative to the summit.
Descending the Steep nose of brim Fell allowed the team to work, putting anchor selection and lowers into practice before finishing on confidence roping.
A great day added to by the challenging heat conditions.

Sun Cream & Sunglasses

2011-04-19T22:35:00.001+01:00

Today I was out in the Peak District again with Dominic at Castle Naze crags Chapel-en-le-Frith.
Another new crag and continuing the theme recently of visiting new crags we opted for this with its superb fine series of cracks and grooves and wide selection of quality routes.
An early start allowed us to make use of the cooler temperatures and tick off the classic HVS routes Scoop Face & Scoop Direct. Other stand out quality routes included the classic Niche Arete and the Rockfax top 50 Nozag.

Phones & Gambling

2011-04-15T16:52:00.011+01:00

Today after a damp rainy start here in the South Lakes and a few phone calls for eyeball weather reports from both our good friends Inglesports(N.Yorks) and Needleports (N.Lakes) painted a similar damp wet picture.
A few black coffee's, later Trowbarrow was the option with its quick drying Limestone and quality routes.
Drying roads and walls were indicating our luck was in and indeed Trowbarrow lived up to it reputation DRY.On the whole great day that could have turned out so different, nice one folks for the eyeball weather reports.

A Yorkshire Sport

2011-04-12T19:20:00.002+01:00

Today after a rest day yesterday Dominic and myself headed East.
Yorkshire sport was indeed the order of the day, and Giggleswick South the crag of Choice.
What a crag on near perfect Limestone, and unlike other surprisingly little polish present. The crag has an array of excellent routes, the best routes of our day had to be The White Spider, The 2nd Ice Field and Water Hazard.
A great day on sun soaked Limestone, life couldn't get any better.

More Sun and Sea

2011-04-10T19:45:00.005+01:00

Another fantastically hot day down on the Culm Coast albeit a little more hazy than previous days this week.
having scoured the Rockfax guide and so many excellent options, we opted for another seacliff in this sun drenched county.
Gull Rock which again is another fin of excellent Culm Rock jutting out into the Atlantic was the crag of choice.
Another sun trap facing south and with no shade made for a day of certain hot hot rock, often a little to hot.
Gull Rock had a great selection of routes on another high angled slab, with stand out routes being the Culm Coast classic Solid air.
A fantastic day making me think the Culm coast never fails to deliver on weather and quality rock.

Culm Coast & Vicarage Cliff

2011-04-09T21:56:00.008+01:00

Today Dom and myself arrived up on the Culm Coast on the most northern part of the sunshine county of Cornwall.
The Culm Coast took on a different feel to that of Bosigran and the likes, with massive sheets of iron hard Culm rising from the sea like jagged shark fins.
The area certainly had and enchanting feel with the interesting rock, and impressive beaches next to the crags.
Not disappointed and super keen we opted for a fantastic Culm fin of Vicarage Cliff near the sleepy village of Morwenstow.
The routes can be easily accessed from mid to low tide and indeed the opposite, allowing plenty of time to tick routes.
Stand out routes on the crag had to be one of the Culm Coast classic's Sunstruck and Box of Delights.

Bosigran and History

2011-04-08T21:32:00.000+01:00

Today we awoke again to more amazing sunshine and superb blue sky's that matched the glistening and twinkling of the Atlantic here on the coast of Cornwall.
Bosigran and its amazing setting with near perfect warm sun drenched granite was definitely venue of choice today.
Keen to step back in history and sample Cornwall's answer to Tower ridge we opted to start the day off on the ultra classic Bosigran(AKA Commando Ridge).
Historically this ridge was used during WWII for training the commando's in rock climbing techniques.
The ridge whilst easy is superb in it's grand setting, makes for an amazing day out coupled up with its exciting wave soaked 1st pitch, if you get your tide times wrong.
Still basking in the sunshine and still keen we headed round to the main cliffs of Bosigran to sample more of the Delights Bosigran had to offer.

Dewerstone

2011-04-07T21:39:00.001+01:00

On the road again we headed away from the Tors of Dartmoor and deeper into the South West to the Dewerstone.
Keen to sample more of the perfect granite, and having been recommended the Dewerstone by a number of climbers it had a lot to live up to.
The Crag itself is located in one of the South West's ancient and magical wooded valleys on the edge of Dartmoor.
We opted for a quick hit of a Rockfax top 50 Central Groove with its plum vertical amazingly sustained corner climbing for the grade giving three quality pitches.
With the mercury still rising here in the SW and both keen to head across to the Atlantic Coast and Bosigran, we cut and run in the hope for a sea breeze and more sun.

Haytor, Sheeps Tor and Dartmoor

2011-04-06T21:59:00.001+01:00

Today Dom and myself moved on to Dartmoor and its perfect Granite Tors, as we couldn't have asked for a better weather forecast.
Having been keen to climb in the South West for sometime Haytor certainly didn't disappoint, with its excellent array of quality routes and fantastic views. After a little chilly start, and numb hands we were rewarded with a fine hot afternoon, as this crag is best visited on sunny afternoons and evenings.
Some of the highlight routes, of the day had to be Levitation and Raven Wing to name a few.
Sheeps Tor was calling, a short drive away and again superb climbing and some rest from the beating sun, and more great route.

Devon Limestone

2011-04-05T21:43:00.001+01:00

Today Dom and myself headed away from the wall of rain down to the sunshine counties,
having both never climbed in the South West.
We opted for the quick hit venue Chudleigh and it's Western Tower which boast sum of the best quality limestone in the area, giving some superb sustained climbing.
Sadly some route have suffered like many other popular limestone crags, and have lots of extremely polished holds albeit this doesn't detract from the superb climbing.
A good day, and introduction to Devon Limestone.

Grit & Oil

2011-04-01T22:06:00.003+01:00

After a wet start to the day, Alastair was fired up to get up a Rockfax top 50 Croton Oil HVS 5a at the little frequented crag of Rivelin.
After watching another team fail on the route, Alastair was a little nervous but dispatched the route with relative ease. Due to forgetting the guidebook we headed over to Burbage South to make use of the remaining light.
We worked a boulder problem that had been eluding me for some time, after a few goes in the setting sun I dispatched the problem with a little difficulty. Overall a successful evening out on Eastern grit after a wet start to the day.
Dom

The Edge

2011-03-29T23:27:00.002+01:00

Another great forecast today so I headed over to the Eastern Peak, and probably the most well know of all Gritstone crags Stanage Edge.
Dom and myself for ease headed to the popular end as it's nicknamed for obvious reasons as it's a short walk from the car.
Having climbed very little on natural grit over the years, it was somewhat of a cultural shock to the system.
Condtions were great with a cold blustery wind keeping the grit cool making for perfect climbing. We ducked around a variety of buttress areas, climbing some really good interesting lines making for another great day on the rock.

The One

2011-03-28T23:44:00.007+01:00

Today back home after a long winter I met up with Dom, at Wilton One on the outskirts of Bolton in Lancashire.
Wilton one is probably the best crag in Lancashire with it unique quarried Grit producing amazing pristine edges and thin cracks. The Prow area and 999 area gives great climbing with plenty of climbing to be had on quality rock, albeit care maybe required on the exits. A great day with surprisingly no one around considering its close proximity to a major city.

Little Brenva Face

2011-03-25T19:24:00.001Z

Today Tom and myself headed back up the to a lesser frequented area and a little more unknown area of Ben Nevis, the Little Brenva Face.
Usually this area of Ben Nevis is better in the earlier part of the season, but not this year. Whilst the Ice routes are becoming thinner in areas this isn't the case here, and as we expected no other teams present in Coire Leis.
Moonwalker was in fantastic condition with excellent ice and perfect weather, almost making it a feeling of Chamonix.
Other routes that were in great condition included Bob Run, Final Buttress, whilst Cresta and Cresta Direct looked thinner.
A couple of teams reported the ice routes high in Observatory gully to be wet, thin and unattached in places Indicator wall & Smiths, albeit Tower Scoop had plenty of traffic with big blue fat Ice.

Hanging In

2011-03-24T21:27:00.002Z

Today I was out with Jeroen & Renate on the last day of their introduction to winter climbing.
Having had a little colder conditions overnight last night and the FL down around 950, conditions had firmed a little.
We headed around and high up into Observatory Gully and the great little route, of Tower Scoop.
Chewy toffee ice albeit slightly wet made for some fantastic climbing. Lots of falling ice also around today, and evidence of the odd cornices collapse.
A few other teams out today also on Tower Ridge, Ledge Route, Indicator Wall and more up in Coire Na Ciste. Forecasts suggesting colder over the weekend.

Summer Early

2011-03-23T22:20:00.001Z

Today Jeroen and Renate including myself headed of to the Mamores to avoid the continuing thaw at all levels and the falling rock and ice debris high on the Ben.
It felt pretty much like summer had landed here on the West Coast with the continued unseasonably warm weather, and warm winds.
We headed for the summer alpine like scramble, the East Ridge of Stob Ban, with its great chimneys and stunning alpine arêtes.
They day improved with great views across the Glens and the cloud lifting its cloak and revealing great views across the Mamores.

The freezer

2011-03-22T23:14:00.000Z

Today Jeroen & Renate opted to do some rope work and make use of the climbing wall and freezer at the Ice Factor rather than dodge the falling debris and warm damp conditions.
So with them both being from the Netherlands and predominately indoor novice climbers, Joroen was keen to look at leading indoors to allow him to progress further.
We also looked at anchor construction, ice screw belays and placement, whilst coaching both on steep ice techniques. Lets hope conditions get cooler soon to prolong the winter climbing season.

Douglas Boulder

2011-03-21T20:30:00.000Z

Day two of Jeroen & Renate course saw us head up to the Douglas Boulder area on the Ben to continue looking at their introduction to winter climbing.
So with them both heading to Bolivia later this year they were keen to look at a number of skills to enable them have a safe enjoyable trip.
So with this in mind we headed to West Gully, safe from falling cornices and ice debris higher up in the corries.
Together they safe guarded each other with simple rope skills and techniques finishing up at the Douglas gap.We also looked at retreating or safe guarding a descent using multiple retrievable abseils.
A few other teams were also out in the area attempting Fawlty Towers but later reported poor conditions with lots of loose rock and poor soft thawing ice and snow.

SCnL

2011-03-20T21:43:00.000Z

Today I met up with Jeroen & Renate for day one of their introduction to winter climbing course. So with this in mind we headed for Glen Coe and the pleasant and enjoyable route of Dorsal Arête, high up in SCnL.
Conditions were soft going due to the volume of snow that fell here on the West Coast last week, and sadly the rapidly rising freezing levels.
Very quiet in the Corrie itself with the the odd team about and only one other team on the Arête.
A great start to the week, lets hope the freezing levels drop and the thaw doesn't continue.

Return to Oz

2011-03-18T21:06:00.002Z

Just back off a weeks break folks, and will once again endeavour to bring up to date reports.
Over the last week here on the West Coast we've had some heavy snow conditions making for slow progress to routes, and high avalanche conditions.
Although Adam has been active during the week new routing in some new locations.
Watch this space for more details over the remaining winter, and indeed it could be a long season.

The Glen

2011-03-18T18:56:00.001Z

Today Adam and myself headed down to an old haunt, from back in the days of living in Fort William.
Glen Nevis is Fort Williams, Llanberis Pass or Langdale with its abundance of quality crags and classic routes on sound rock. Having spent time climbing winter routes since November we were both keen to stretch the fingers and joints a little on the rock, and enjoy a simple easy walk-in.
Upper Scimitar has a number of short hard routes which are either poorly protected or simply best top roped or soled, and having never climbed there before even better.
I was also out today to shoot photo's for Adam and his sponsors Marmot UK and Edelrid, the pictures seen here are of Adam soloing the committing route of Where the Mood Takes Me E5 6a*.

A Snowy Coe

2011-03-12T17:54:00.001Z

Today I the whole team working with Adam and his clients, headed to the Buachaille.
Our route of choice given the heavy snow forecast was North Buttress (West Route).
This route is fantastic, and gives a safe approach and good climbing in such snowy conditions.
Ronan and myself climbed the three quality mixed chimney pitches, before looking at safe descent. Conditions gradually worsened during the day, with snow down to the road and some very deep drifts on descent. Layers of slab and graupel were also evident in the snow pack.
Care and careful route choice will be required of the next few days due to the volume of snow that has fallen and continues to still fall.
Adam and Andy also climbed the route, whilst Ken headed up onto North Ridge of Stob Ban for his mountaineering day.
The actual avalanche risk observed today was high, the Forecast was considerable.

A Wild Compression

2011-03-11T19:45:00.002Z

Today I was out working again for Adam with his client Ronan on the Ben. Adam also was out working on compression crack V'5 making for a fun sociable day out.
Another high avalanche forecast, made for tricky route choice given the recent snow fall and strong winds.
The approach to was fine with scoured slopes with the odd patch of unstable slab and large areas of soft fresh snow.
Compression crack itself was in fairly good condition, albeit with areas of rotten old ice.
We did two pitches and bailed off after the 1st steep pitch, also the was a very large avalanche out of South Castle Gully.
Large enough to hear before, seeing it and enough vibrations to be felt through the Ice and in the air. On the Whole a good day considering the conditions.

Shelter

2011-03-10T20:17:00.003Z

Today, I was out working for Adam with his team of returning clients from Co Cork.
Ronan and myself along with Adam and his 2 clients, headed for Far Eastern Buttress.
With such a windy forecast and more snow predicted, this gave use plenty of shelter.
Adam and his clients did Yen VI'7 whilst myself and Ronan did Eastern Slant with a variation finish.
Throughout the day we had the odd heavy gust backed with heavy spin drift/Graupel.
On the whole a great day with Andy & John also out working for Adam on Eastern Slant and ken also with Adams clients on the Zig Zags.

Win sum Lose sum

2011-03-09T19:04:00.005Z

Today Jamie and myself headed up into Lochain here on the West Coast.
The forecast again was for wild winds and heavy snowfall making for interesting climbing.
We opted for Spectre V'6* on Summit Buttress in the hope this would afford some protection.
With so much wind blown snow and the route having a good covering already, made for lots of cleaning so we decided to abb off and return another day.
A few other teams were also out in the Coire on Dorsal Arete, Raeburns Central & Boomerang Arete.
Again wild winds forecast for tomorrow and another high avalanche risk forecast.

No 3 Gully Buttress and the change

2011-03-08T21:10:00.005Z

Hiya Campbell

Yesterday I was up on Number 3 Gully Buttress high in Coire Na Ciste (Coire of the Box). Conditions were fantastic with good ice and superb Neve with a little rime present on the buttress.
The Right hand traverse at top was a little thin & scratchy (but I don't know if this is always the case - certainly felt spicy and good value for a III).
Whilst Not many folk out on the hill today - I nearly got blown over outside the hut & the water supply was going upwards...Many thanks Izi for you report.

Shadowing

2011-03-07T21:22:00.001Z

Today after a change to my plans last night, I headed out with Alan for a day of observation.
Alan, myself and Mike headed up deep into Coire Na Ciste and No2 Gully.
Mike having been a regular client of Alan's since the 80's, was keen to enjoy probably one of the Best easier gully's on the Mountain.
Whilst straight forward it goes through some pretty spectacular scenery.
The conditions high on the Ben were still excellent with good ice everywhere.
The outlook is set to be pretty stormy for the next few days, albeit it should top up the conditions.

McMillan & Compression Re-Match

2011-03-06T21:58:00.002Z

Hey Campbell

Hope all is well today we headed round to Compression Crack V/5 ( castle area) where we climbed the 1st pitch on plastic ice and traversed bomber neve to crux pitch. Unfortunately the recent heavy thaws had taken bottom half away and was pretty detached and hollow sounding and Notoriously thin.

Overall the weather was very settled with no wind , but high temperatures forcing freezing levels to rise around the 900mtr mark

McMillans Delight

2011-03-05T22:40:00.000Z

Hey Campbell
We headed up to No3 gully buttress area today to climb greengully,L hand variation which was in superb condition. We headed down No3 gully still with plenty time so we opted for the Ben classic, Thompsons.
Conditions on both routes were fantastic with superb chewy toffee ice making them a delight and feel a little easier for IV.
We topped out to +6 degrees on summit with a stella cloud inversion to make the day perfect.
Cheers Bill McMillan

A Scoop

2011-03-03T21:20:00.000Z

Today Joanne keen to get back on the Ice wished to head high up on Ben Nevis.
Currently you've got to head high to find winter conditions, due to the high freezing levels.
We opted to head around and high up into Observatory Gully to Tower Scoop.
Tower Scoop was in fantastic condition with good chewy Ice, albeit a little leaner than normal making it a good value III.
Hadrian's wall Direct saw lots of traffic today, whilst teams were also on Zero and Point Five Gully's. Let's hope it gets colder soon.

Alpine East

2011-03-01T21:28:00.003Z

Today I was out with my partner in the Cairngorms.
This being her first day out winter climbing this winter, we opted for the leisurely walk-in of Coire An-T Sneachda.
Snow conditions couldn't have been better, with almost all the easier gully lines complete.
We opted for the Runnel, which gives pleasent climbing.
The Buttress routes within the coire, were not so good I.E Black, but a little light rime was evident on the top sections.

Nevis Range

2011-02-28T18:44:00.004Z

Today Joanne and myself met up with Spike for a relaxed afternoon.
Nevis range was good considering it appearance, with runs complete above the Quad chair.The better conditions being off in the back corries and the summit runs.Conditions looked good further afield with buttresses looking white on the Ben.
Further NW hills also looked to have a good covering of snow .
A great day, excellent company with Alpine weather.

Lochain

2011-02-27T20:17:00.002Z

Today I was out again with Tim & Ross for day two of their winter climbing course.
Both with a basic summer climbing back ground and a few winter routes were keen to progress onto the sharpend.
Having spent yesterday up on Aonach Mor we headed of to the Coe.
Lochain was in good condition despite the recent heavy thaw.
They selected their own route, Tim led along with advice and help, whilst Ross keen to become a more skilled second worked on his belay management and removal of gear.
A fantastic day with great condition and stunning views.
About time!!!

Thaw over!

2011-02-26T19:30:00.002Z

Today I was out working with Tim and Ross on Aonach Mor.
Having had such horrendous weather here, over the last few days with heavy warm rain and high temperatures on the summits.
Pleasantly suprised conditions have hung in well, with lots of excellent ice on some routes.
We chose left twin and Siamese twin, both again with good ice albeit a little soft.
This evening's lower freezing levels should firm conditions, to give much improved climbing.

A Mix

2011-02-23T21:57:00.002Z

Today I was back out working with Sam.
After yesterday Sam was a Little tired, but keen to make the most of his day despite the forecast.
Whilst keen to forecast was for High winds and heavy rain, so we opted for a mix.
Keen to experience more general mountaineering we nipped up the Zig Zags, then descended them.
Happy and damp we headed back to the very busy Ice Factor, for a quick hit on the indoor wall to work on his movement techniques, before transferring into the Ice wall.
This is perfect to working on progressing his ice techniques and developing it further.
A great few days with Sam, with him making great progress.
Conditions will almost certainly improve with this thaw cycle, making conditions higher on the Ben even better.

A Change

2011-02-22T20:16:00.002Z

Hi folks today I was out working with Sam who, has got to be the youngest winter client to date.
Sam who has just turned 13 booked through an AALA provider for his 2 day course.
Keen to make the most of today's conditions before the storm, we headed up to Coire Na Ciste.
Through out the day we looked at refreshing his basic movement skills, and techniques.
We topped the day off In the Gulch climbing 3 good quality ice pitch's, allowing him to get a taste for outside ice.

Dinner Time

2011-02-21T18:38:00.002Z

Today I met up with Dave, Gay & Dave from the Christian Mountaineering club.
Having all spent the previous day, refreshing winter skills they were again keen to brush up.
We opted for another great mountaineering day out in Glen Coe, Dinner time Buttress.
Together we looked at simple mountaineering rope work and route choice, enabling them to lead themselves in a mountaineering style.

MCofS Student Seminar

2011-02-20T17:13:00.001Z

Over the weekend I was out working in the Cairngorms for the MCofS.
The weekend is aimed at giving the student, the basic winter fundamentals.
Over the weekend, we looked at a variety of skills from self arrest, movement with and without crampons to name a few. An excellent weekend, back over on the West tomorrow.

There is a God!

2011-02-17T19:19:00.003Z

Today Elliott and myself headed back to Glen Coe for the Final day.
Elliott has been on a private winter guided week, and was keen to tick a Glen Coe classic and take full advantage of today's brilliant weather.
Having had testing conditions this week with lots of fresh snow and High avalanche risks.
We had a perfect start to the day with a thick cloud inversion here on the West Coast, and bright sunshine which couldn't have been a better way to finish off.
North Buttress on the Buachaille was in the best condition I've climbed it in with good Neve, albeit with iced cracks. Having worked on Elliott's mixed techniques yesterday, this route allowed him to make good use of them.
Great Conditions and big smiles, makes a perfect day.

Tools

2011-02-16T21:18:00.001Z

Today Elliott and myself headed back to Glen Coe, for day 4.
Elliott tired from wading in deep snow earlier this week and not fancying the long walk, opted to go tooling.
With Elliott keen to work on his mixed climbing techniques, we opted for split venues.
Onich slabs, to work on movement and foot work before using the cracks under the bridge.

Zig Zags Direct

2011-02-15T21:01:00.001Z

Today with more fresh snow down at sea level here on the West Coast, Elliott and myself headed for a forgotten gem.
This little Gem, is fantastic in these conditions and only really comes in with a low snowline, it gives three good interesting mixed climbing pitch's.
A few other teams were also out on the classic mountaineering route Zig Zags, enjoying the safe conditions.
Also with Elliott keen to look at ways of descending this type of ground we headed down the Zig Zags.

Alternative

2011-02-14T19:15:00.002Z

Day 2 of Elliotts winter climbing course, and another High Avalanche forecast.
After yesterdays heavy snow here on the West Coast, saw Elliott and myself looking for alternatives.
Whilst not a true winter climbing venue, Meall an T-Suidhe ribs make a great substitute, in current conditions. The route can be open to variation with sections of II/III giving pleasant climbing.
We had the odd snow flurry throughout the day, and often heavy at times.

Run Away!!

2011-02-13T21:40:00.004Z

Today Elliott and myself headed up to Stob Coire Nan Lochain, for day 1 of his climbing course.
Conditions from the word go were not favourable, with heavy rain which turned to snow at around 450m.
Luckly a few earlier teams had broken trail into the corrie, making progress better albeit slow.
Still snowing, and thigh deep out of the tracks, and routes buried, A few brave souls headed up to Dorsal Arete and Ordinary route.
With avalanche conditions changing by the minute and still snowing heavy, we opted to cut our losses and head for the Ice Factor. The Avalanche forecast was Considerable, but actual SAIS observed for today was later given HIGH.

Final Day

2011-02-12T21:19:00.002Z

Today I was back out with Simon and James for their final day.
Having absorbed a good amount of information over the week, they were both keen to put it to use.
So although tired but keen we made good use of the Gondola at Aonach Mor.
Having had, snow here last night we headed around to the West Face to make use of some excellent rocky mountaineering terrain.
A great day had by Simon and James using fully and soundly skills acquired this week.

SCnL

2011-02-11T18:53:00.002Z

Today I was out with James and Simon for day 4 of their mountaineering course.
After having spent the last few days with Jamie looking at the basic fundamental skills.
Today was about putting these skills into practice whilst, looking at new skills, such as short pitching, quick belay's.
We also looked at different methods, of protecting traverses, i.e using natural runners and spikes, slings and threads.
Rounding the day of we looked at ways of descending mountaineering ground safely.

Winter Fundamentals

2011-02-06T23:24:00.001Z

Today I was again over East working in the Northern Corries on a 1 day winter skills.
The day is aimed at giving people the fundamental basic skills, enabling them to enjoy the winter hills safely.
We spent the day looking at basic movement with and without crampons & cutting steps.
Throughout the day we reinforced these skills, and introduced more, I.E Self Belay's and the self arrest.
Conditions were fantastic with a good solid snow pack with little avalanche risk, also some routes were being climbed in Coire an t-Sneachda.

The Great Escape!!

2011-02-05T22:12:00.002Z

The great escaped East, to the Cairngorms for the weekend, and of course better weather.
I was out today delivering a one day introduction to winter skills, in Coire Laogh Mor.
Throughout the day, we looked at the basic skills to enable safe travel in winter conditions.
Conditions couldn't have been better with good Neve and nice dry weather, albeit with a good stiff Westerly breeze. A great day, dry!!

Survival

2011-02-03T20:03:00.004Z

Today it was defiantly a final test of this weeks mountaineering course.
An early start this morning to try and beat the storm force winds we headed beyond the CIC hut.
With such a poor forecast, and high avalanche conditions we stayed low and tried to hide from the heavy winds, No such luck.
We looked at basic pitching putting all the teams new skills to use.
Beating the retreat the team and myself scurried off, reports of No5 gully having a big avalanche today.
Please visit our facebook page for more images from this week.

Wild Wet n Windy

2011-02-02T18:51:00.001Z

Today with another day of heavy rain and wild winds forecast, we had a change of pace.
So keen not to waste the day we looked more into the theory of avalanche awareness, interspersed with mountaineering rope work.
Also with the team keen to work a little more on their navigation, we opted for a very soggy afternoon on Cowl Hill.
More wild weather tomorrow adding to the fresh snow that has been put down today. Challenging conditions over the next few days.
Sent using BlackBerry® from Orange

Beinn a Chaorainn

2011-02-01T20:07:00.003Z

Today Helen, Geraldine and Alan and myself headed further East.
The forecast for today was for sw-w strong gales here on the West Coast. The East Ridge, was relatively sheltered for most of the day giving pleasant conditions.
Snow and hail fell for periods of time giving the ridge a more wintry appearance.
We looked again into safe travel over mountaineering terrain culminating in winter navigation. Thanks Helen for today's image.
A great day, and even better finishing it dry.

Winter Mountaineering Day 2

2011-01-31T19:32:00.005Z

Today I met up with Helen from Paramo, Alan and Geraldine for Day 2 of their winter Mountaineering course.
After a good day yesterday with Andy looking at basic winter skills on Bauchaille Etive Beag we made a logical progression.
The forecast today was for high winds gusting SW to 75mph.
So with this in mind we stayed low to look at mountaineering rope work and skills to cover this type of terrain safely.
We also looked snow belay's, bucket seats and bollards.
The forecast is not looking great for the next few days but at least it suggests a series of small freeze thaw cycles.